Mala's Shopping Guide (2025) this is still a bit of a work in progress..

I get asked about my wardrobe a lot and whole I used to answer in a pretty excited tone, I've realized it can be overwhelming for people/90% of the time they stop listening in the first sentence, and discussing it so much with those who lose interest in my words is exhausting for everyone involved.

So I've divided this little guide into sections to address each thing seperately. All of my tips can be ignored and you can skip straight to the links if you want, and I don't even have to know!

Also, all of this is from the perspective of a lifestyle lolita with old school tastes. You don't need to buy anything here with the intent of being a lifestyle lolita or even wearing old school, but it just influences how I talk since this is about my own personal shopping habits.

Note: If you read this, don't tell me. Only let me know if you bought something using this guide. You can even show me things you're considering buying, but only if you're using this guide. I have had lots of people tell me they're considering buying things or ask me for lots of links but never actually buy anything. I truly get excited when my friends get into lolita or kawaii fashions I also like so when you tell me that you're considering buying something but you don't, it's not something I enjoy. Socializing is something that takes up a lot of energy for me...

Before You Shop/Buy
Note About Sizing
Regarding Plus Sizes
Regarding Quality

Shopping Process / Finding Items
Finding Releases I Want
Price Talk
Cheap Items
Regarding Japanese Resellers
Regarding Taobao Resellers

My Favorite Brands / Notes
Regarding Brands
Japanese Brands
Chinese Brands
Indie Brands
Shoes


Before You Shop/Buy


Regarding Sizes

Regarding Sizing, you need to know your measurements. If you eyeball your size, you're going to get the wrong thing- even if you don't the first dozen times. Fashion sizes are all over the place- from brand to brand, from nation to nation. You may get lucky for a long time- especially if you're on the smaller side, but well, know the size inconsistency goes both ways.

A measuring tape is cheap and you can find them at random stores like CVS or Walgreens for really cheap.

TLDR: Take your measurements, or it's gonna be wrong.

Also to note: Sometimes people measure things flat. If the waist size is under 20 inches, it's being measured flat (though larger sizes can be measured flat too and may be a higher number). You multiply it by two to get the actual measurement. IE if it's a 14 inch waist, it's around 28 inches.

There are a million guides for taking your measurements- images and videos. I'll include some but you're free to look up others that are shorter in length. I encourage you to google. Cosplayers also have to take their measurements often so you'll find a lot of resources there too surely.

Also, if you have wide shoulders or a specific kind of measurement that isn't accounted for (like a wider neck), you need to either ask the shops what the shoulder measurement is or seek out of a shop that provides shoulder measurements if you don't want to ask.


Regarding Plus Sizes

Okay so, I'm not plus sized and as a result, many of my links won't account for plus sizes since this is a shopping guide of things I wear. I will have a section for plus sizes, but I can't really give you information about those brands a lot of the time since I don't have any experience with them at the moment. I mainly want to clear up some misconceptions regarding Asian brands and give you some tips with my limited knowledge based on conversations I've had with plus sized friends..


  - There are pieces from Japanese brands not made for plus sized people that can be worn by them because of shirring / elastics. I know plus sized folks who wear Angelic Pretty and have sold my AP to my plus sized friends due to it having shirring. And also, well, there are big Japanese brands that make plus sizes like Atelier Pierrot and Metamorphose Temps De Fille.

  - The 2010s lolita / jfashion communities were insane, so if you look up guides, people may be insane about sizing there. You may see bullying or just outright lies about fat people in the fashion. I don't recommend complaining about it to me specifically because it's not something that affects me and since I've had this conversation dozens of times I truly have nothing left to say other tahn "Oh that sucks yeah yeah it was weird back then yeah it was bad." It was an awful thing, but the community is much more open now and many of the lolitas I know (if not most of them), are fat women.

  - There are jfashion brands that focus on plus sizes, seamstresses that will make plus sizes for you, and some sites even let you organize by measurement. It is truly a tired topic to me to discuss things for plus sized people not existing. It's like chill to talk about wanting something but never being able to have it because of sizing, but not even looking for things that exist because you think everyone who wears jfashion or all Asians are a size 0 upsets me because it is incorrect and erases the hard work of designers accounting for larger sizes and erases the existence of fat girls in Eastern Asia.

TLDR: there are options that exist. Brands that exist specifically for you, people trying to make things accessible to you, etc etc. It's a lot harder for you though and can even be more expensive at times, but I recommend making social media accounts or designated spaces where you only follow plus sized people in the fashions you like, so that you're able to actively see what they're wearing or ask them about it (if they're the kind of person to respond to comments.) There's an entire plus sized Chinese fashion community that exists and a much larger community in the West as well. Please acknowledge and make use of their hard work! Look at these documents and spreadsheets and blogs! I could never make that!

- Sensitivity by my Jfashion Wearing Plus Sized Asian Friend Who Preferred to Be Kept Anonymous!! Love you

Regarding Quality

I care about quality a lot and don't have a lot of interest in talking about fast fashion. If you talk to me about Shein or Amazon or other brands known for large mass produced low quality items, I may become a bit unresponsive- not because I'm judging you but because I've had the conversation regarding that a million times.

Also, I clear up something regarding Taobao. Taobao is an aggregate that has a variety of brands on it at different price points. Some are high quality brands, some mass produce replicas, some are garbage. Taobao brands can even make replicas of other taobao brands for context. I've bought $20 dresses from Chinese brands and $120 dresses from Chinese brands. All items I've bought from Taobao have been high quality because I do research on the things I buy before getting them (though there still have been difficulties due to me having sensory issues). There's a lot of lolitas who hate Taobao, many who love it, and many who buy from Taobao who do it in a completely different way from me. It's up to you to figure out how you want to approach Taobao and what your standards for quality are. And well not just quality, but what are your preferences? Sometimes things are 'high quality' but you still hate them on your skin.

Anyway if you talk shit about Taobao to me, I'm probably going to lose interest in the conversation love because I've had every conversation I can have about reasons to dislike Taobao one million times. Also, assuming all Chinese factories use slave labor is insane and stupid.

Regarding Shein, Amazon, Temu, Etc In Particualar

-  Fast fashion can look okay aesthetically sometimes, but you need to buy nicer items, look at product reviews, or get someone else to link it to you entirely if you're new to buying jfashion.

-  There are different brands that operate on Amazon and Aliexpress and stuff- some better than others. I don't think it's worth browsing those retailers though because most can be bought elsewhere for cheaper. I really don't have the energy to sort through all of that with you.

-  I am well aware that there may be some more plus sized blouse or cardigan options offered from Shein or something like that. I don't care just buy it if you want. I don't care. Don't ask me to approve of it. Don't use me to validate your purchases/feelings thawg. I'm not gonna give you tips because I don't know anything about that.

-  Be aware that there are a lot of replicas / items that look bad. I really don't want you to send me items asking if they're suitable. I don't have the energy for it and like I said, it's not my expertise. Maybe you can ask someone else? But not me.


Finding Releases I Want

There are multiple ways to find things. Here's how I've done them over time as my internet habits have changed.

You need to interact with the subculture in some way to find things you like. Fortunately, social media is a thing that exists, so you can keep your interactions one sided if you don't want to talk to anyone.

-  I used to follow Japanese brands on various social medias. Big Japanese brands tend to be active on Instagram and Twitter. You can find more by going through their following. You can also turn on posting notifications for brands

-   Lolita (and other jfashion) Discords exist. People may discuss new releases in them. This is how I keep up and find new brands I wouldn't have ever thought about a lot of the time.

-   The Twitter algorithm is pretty great if you only interact with content you like and mute all discourse words. I see Japanese lolitas talking about Chinese releases and Japanese releases there.

-   I use Rednote/Xiaohongshu a lot. I follow Chinese brands there and also, the algorithm shows me Chinese lolitas talking about new Chinese releases. Some JP brands post there too (like Majoh). There's a lot of communities on RedNote that interact with each other through the algorithm, so if you use it, you should probably only interact with jfashion content or else you'll fill your feed with a bunch of random other stuff. Sidenote: be careful using rednote if you have BDD.

-   There's a big lolita archive called lolibary where you can find things you like and sort by tags. I don't find things I want this way though lol. I just ID stuff, but a lot of old schoolers do.

-   Following other people who dress in a way you like and asking them what they're wearing or looking at their coord breakdowns (or image searching on Taobao / using tags on Lolibrary to figure out what release they have)

-   Ultimately though, it can be pretty hard to improve your coords/fine more niche things if you don't interact with anyone. I definitely find a Lot of brands by interacting with people who have similar tastes. And well, you're probably going to get scared interacting with these communities. Some people suck, some are great, some state things that are factually incorrect and can set you on the wrongpath. And also, every jfashion community (at least the ones I interact with) is pretty gatekeepery. They should be by the way. It's a lot to take in, but it's just how it goes. I don't have any tips for this. My first lolita interactions were kinda bad after I got into the fashion. My first jfashion interactions were also really bad (being black in the early 2010s was SO cool), but well, bad interactions must be experienced to find good people. Unless you get lucky and find good people immediately lol.

To add one more thing, I don't use any jfashion subreddit or large public Discord. I can't tolerate being in them, so interactions you have in them will vary. I'm mainly in private friend discords and local discords.

Price Talk

Prices are gonna vary depending on what you buy. I think some things you can get deals with and accumulate quickly while other things you should not skimp out on. Jfashion is basically the same as any collector's hobby, but you're just wearing your collection. Many lolitas aren't wealthy. There are a lot of who middle class or below, but it's something they choose to invest money into. It's a Slow Fashion, and many lolitas who have larger wardrobes have been in the hobby for years (though some are certainly rich).


  - Japanese Brand is generally expensive, especially the big legendary brand that lolitas love a lot. Even if you find something affordable, costs can increase due to import fees (ie tariffs/customs), shipping fees, and if you're as forgetful as me, warehouse fees.

  - You'll find Japanese brand for the most affordable prices secondhand, but if it's not from your country, it still gets pricy quickly.

  - I find Japanese consistently is Lacemarket but by consistently, I mean.. sometimes.. I buy things slowly and try to focus on things I think are worth it.

  - DON'T USE DEPOP OR LCEMARKET OR POSHMARK unless you know how much these items are supposed to be priced on the secondhand market. If you use it anyways, don't say I didn't warn you. And well, please don't buy anything that is unmarked. It could be from Amazon or a bad Aliexpress brand. This has happened to multiple people I know... As in they found an expensive dress on depop or poshmark they liked then found it later on Aliexpress or Amazon.


Things You Can Get Cheaply Consistently

Well, you're probably thinking, what about accessories? Surely I can just get some cheap accessories from Aliexpress. Well, I talk about it briefly, with my own shopping habits and experiences.

     - I don't buy headpieces from aliexpress, but I have before. Large headbows are fine I guess though they never match what I'm going for. With rectangular headpieces (the ones you tie I tie around my head), sometimes, they're okay in pictures but I hate the lace and structure of them. Sometimes they're shiny too. I've never bought a rectangular headpiece from Taobao itself.

     - Socks. You can get socks for really cheap, really cute socks. I buy almost all of my socks for less than $3 from Taobao. Cute socks are important in a lot of jfashion. If you're worried about lace quality or particular about it, you can just buy socks without lace but other cute designs. If you want nice lace socks and don't like anything on Taobao, you'll have to pay more.

     - I get my filler jewelry cheaply from antique stores a lot of the time. You can probably find nice cheap jewelry you like elsewhere too. There are some difficulties for me because I have small fingers and am particular about jewelry.

     - I like to buy my bloomers from Taobao. There's also nice petticoats from a Aurora and Ariel though I wouldn't call them cheap I guess, but you can just buy a 1 or 2 petticoats and coast off them for a while.


Regarding Japanese Resellers

- Most resellers with a lot of old Japanese brand stock in the West are run by scalpers. Some people in Japan are also scalpers. The Old School market is being ruined by scalpers. Don't buy from scalpers and if you do, don't tell me. You'll figure out who the scalpers are the more you look at the market.

Regarding Taobao Resellers

- I hate DevilInspired. This is something people close to me know about me. A lot of things stocked on DevilInspired are very low quality items from Taobao. being upcharged by like 300%. I've seen $30 dresses from Taoabo sold for over $100 on DevilInspired. Things with low reviews will also be put on there- as in a dress even Chinese lolitas say is shit will be sold on DI but you can't even see the reviews because it's on DevilInspired rather than Taobao. I know some people are willing to pay the upcharge for the convenience, but I think that's super silly regrading DI because so much of what they stock is so bad. I have nothing else to say about DevilInspired and don't talk about it to me.

- To add on, every Taobao Reseller will have an upcharge (though they vary) to keep their business running. DevilInspired is probaby the most popular reseller with the worst upcharge, compounded on by their complete lack of quality control. I don't think Taobao resellers are bad because of this though and I have a particular fondness for 42Lolita.

- I don't use Taobao resellers, but since there isn't really a large community in the West based around Chinese brand (aside from Chinese born lolitas), if you don't know where to start looking for items, you can sometimes find nice brands by looking through reseller stock. Usually they'll list the brand if it's a taobao reseller that isn't horrible. If they don't list the brand, run for the hills.

My Favorite Brands / Notes

Here are some brands I buy from. More may or may not be added. It really depends on my energy and memory lol.

I'll add notes if I think thye're necessary. Big Japanese brands don't need introduction. So many people have done that better than I ever could.


Japanese Brands

Baby The Stars Shine Bright

Metamorphose Temps De Filel

Maxicimam - Maxicimam/Mam/Maximum is a lolita brand (with subbrands) that makes old school lolita, jpunk, and various other things. You can find them secondhand pretty easily, and they also sell things new. They actually have a shop in Harajuku with items that range from their entire span of existence. That stuff isn't listed online. A lot of their out of stock stuff is actually in their shop in person too. Source of Derangement Truly.

Angelic Pretty - Doesn't need an introduction, but I feel like some people may be surprised to see AP as a brand I enjoy. For context, I will buy AP in person or secondhand. I like their accessories and old school designs/old school revivalism. One day one of their revivalism designs will surely get me.

Putumayo - Putumayo is a defunct JPunk and lolita brand. Technically they've been reborn but their new releases as of writing this are unfortunately irrelevant to me. Because they're defunt, you can only find them secondhand. Prices for them vary across the board though, but I'd never spend a lot on a Putumayo item.

MAJOH - Antigone's Majoh is a Japanese brand that focuses on old school inspired punk, lolita, and other fashions. They also sell HANGRY ANGRY items. The designer for MAJOH is Mr. Corset. They have a physical shop in Japan as well.

Peace Now / Black Peace Now - Casual punk/lolita brand that no longer exists. Most of their items are pretty cheap secondhand. I really love them a lot. Differentiating BPN and Peace Now becomes a chore as their design sensibilities aren't too different from one another a lot of the time.

Wunderwelt - Wunderwelt is not a brand- it lists several brands. I find new brands here sometimes. It's how I found N+AH, and I also frequently peruse Marble there. It also has a used section though I usually don't buy used from WW. It's just not somewhere I shop.


Chinese Brands

I'm going to list my favorites and some I'm keeping an eye on. Not every brand I buy from is here nor every brand I'm spectating because Chinese brands come and go and I'd like for this list to not become completely useless. It will probably be useless someday though considering how weird Taobao is with its links.

Also to add on, CN brands I follow will often make a large variety of items. Some may be more consistent with their releases though. It can be hard to figure out what CN brands you like because a lot of CN releases aren't properly archived

I really recommend using Rednote or some other Chinese social media if you really like Taobao releases. Chinese Lolita Updates just isn't very thorough (though I appreciate their efforts) and lolibrary doesn't really have a lot (I know I could add some in theory to slowly contribute to archival work for these brands.. I know.). If you don't know about releases as they are being made/when they drop, you're going to miss them and possibly never be able to buy them again!!


NDC玻璃纸之夜原创设 - Made Crown of Thorns, a set I truly adore, but has other cool releases too. I have other friends who've bought from NDC, but I am not sure what they've purchased.

Roji Roji - A high quality, affordable sock brand. Lots of cute designs. Most, if not all of my socks with prints are from here.

小能熊lolita原创洋装 / Little Bear Lolita - Created Laura's Doll which this year now has Another variant. The original Laura's Doll was very Baby the Stars Shine Bright inspired, but with each new release of Laura's Doll, the designers seem to get more comfortable putting in their own ideas and draw from other sources too. Truly one of the CN brands of all time in my heart.

Dark Star Island / 暗星之岛lolita预售店 - DSI is one of the CN brands of all time actually. They've existed for a while and do releases for their anniversaries. Their designs are truly groundbreaking to me, and I really love keeping up with everything they make- even if it doesn't appeal to me. My favorite releases by them are Moonlight Sigh (specifically the white skirt though I do own the entire thing) and Spicy Berry which I unfortunately don't own. Spicy Berry actually has so many replicas that I can't even reliably get it secondhand. It's truly over.

KonuNoku - Gothic brand I love with all my heart. I love all of their pieces though only own Lace and Cross Cotton OP. Autism friendly (nice cotton) and just stellar design work. I don't own their velveteen piece though because it does not look like velveteen to me.

Epetice - Epetice is not a Chinese brand. It is Japanese Reseller of Chinese brands. The reason I am linking them is because they consistently put cool designs on my radar (because I follow them on Twitt), and a lot of JP lolitas will talk about random things being sold by Epetice which is fun for me to read, and if a JP lolita buys something from Epetice, I like to see their coords.

Indie Brands

Okay so, this list is probably gonna be all over the place. I love Indie baby and try to actively support brands coming into existence without the existing infrastructures of Japan and China you see!

I'll miss some indie brands I like. So many indie brands only post on Instagram, and I don't really use Instagram a lot because using it is like touching poison ivy to me. I'll probably add more to this section over time as I remember and more indie brands pop up.

Some brands I don't own things by, but plan to eventually. Or I just keep up with their drops.


Wirehead - Wirehead is a Lithuanian brand run by someone who is nice. I've only ever bought a sample from Wirehead that I didn't keep for sizing reasons, but it did reignite my desire to have a Wirehead piece. I really love a lot of Wirehead's designs, and the owner is awesome. I think in OS, Wirehead may be the most popular indie seamstress (though I could easily be wrong- I don't do much socialization). Because of this, when pieces drop, you usually need to get them very quickly. There's a countdown on their IG stories, but it's still easy for things to go out of stock while you're still in checkout. I AM HAPPY FOR WIREHEAD'S CONTINUED SUCCESS.

Circus of Peril - Really cool designs run by a person who dresses in a very cool way. I own a choker from CoP, but I have my eyes on other things. It's just since it's run by one person and the designs are one of a kind, I never get my hands on anything. CoP's old designs are all visible on kofi. The owner has vended at some events IRL, but I don't know any them. I mainly remember because the designs I love were sold at those events.. It's joever..

Inari - REALLY GOOD. Makes designs probably in a similar vein to Circus of Peril, but they have very different design sensibilities most of the time. Stuff's super cute.

SkratchyShop - I love Skratchy. Visual kei x lolita inspired wear by the coolest girl on Earth (flor). Truly encapsulates what I love about punk and old school <3

RR Memorandum - RR Memorandum is cool to me for a variety of reasons. I actually haven't seen any other western brand with any similarities to how they run things (while also making the designs they do). I really like them. I've bought Red Socks from RRM. They have many other designs I like too such as a Fluffy Angel Headdress and some old designs no longer on site. I hope someday to own more things by RRM, but if I can't, maybe you caaan.

Other Saints - This brand is run by someone named Yule who has such a huge brain. True galaxy brain. I look forward to seeing Yule's future releases. Truly. I don't own something from Other Saints yet (though I almost bought their first release), but I keep up with Yule's personal designs because I follow him on Tumblr and Instagram. Really fantastic WORK. Mixes up everything I like into a nice stew (dress). Smiles.

Rorita's Angel Wardrobe - Lovely old school brand operating in Belarus. My girlfriend owns a dress from here, and I technically have a matching one that is currently in USPS hell. I really like everything by them, and the owner is very sweet and helpful. Their designs truly remind me of porcelain or antique dolls..

Distant Melody - I like Distant Melody. Her accessories are my favorite, but I like her JSKs and skirts too. Drops more than any indie seamstress or brand I really follow which is insane. I'm having a hard time describing DM's designs because truthfully I view them as quitenssial old school ahaha. Perhaps Baby the Stars Shine Bright adjacent.

Lili Luna - I just found this person. LOVE THEIR WORK!!!!!!!!!!! Their cutsews, tanks, and collars are particular cutesies to me. I haven't looked into their stuff too much due to me Just Finding them at the crux of my jobless arc, but I will have more to say eventually~

In truth my gatekeeper tendencies are going off the charts because these are small brands I really adore that I want to keep to myself but I want them to grow..GROW FOREVER.. And also the owners of a lot of indie brands are so nice. I really appreciate their contributions to EGL (and other jfashions) as a whole, so I hope they can get super rich and live comfortably forever.

Plus Size List Made with My Limited Knowledge and (Eventually) Help From Friends

I don't have experience with some of these, but it's here because a lot of people ask me about it. I'm not the best person to ask though and truthfully I think it'd be best to ask other plus sized lolitas, but I know my tastes are magnificent *hears gun cocking* and everyone wants to know what I love so so mu- mala is shot in the head for her hubris.

Metamorphose Temps De Fille - One of the legendary JP brands. This is a link to their plus sized section. They tend to release a lot of their great designs in plus sizes such as Antique Bouquet. One of the biggest JP brands in old school, so it's a delight that they're making their old designs accessible to a wider audience.

Maxicimam - I like Maxicimam a lot and talked about them earlier, and they offer a range called Lovely Maxicimam. Good source if you're into really traditional old school.

42Lolita plus Size Section - Reliable and charming taobao reseller with a low upcharge that has a plus size option

Glittertale> - Makes custom designs in plus sizes (and sells their own pre-existing designs.) I love their gobe work.

Nightwhisper - From what I understand, Nightwhisper makes their own designs and alters existing Taobao pieces.


Plus Size Lolita Spreadsheet - This is a large list of plus sizes hosted on Google Docs plus some other resources. Has CN brands,JP brand, indie brand, and some resource blogs. I don't know what all is there.

MORE TO BE ADDED LATERS BUT THE DOC HAS A LOT OF STUFF..

Erm Shoes

Hey so.. You might be wondering.. Where do I get my shoes..? Um, well, to be honest, I don't buy a lot of lolita shoes. I actually buy shoes once or twice a year, and I tend to keep my eyes on shoes for a very long time. I don't keep up with new shoe releases and tend to eye different things. I also like buying shoes in person at the mall sometimes.

I don't feel super confident offering many shoe brands aside from Antaina (will make custom shoes for you if you're out of their range of sizes / if there's a design you want). Angelic Imprint also exists though I don't have a link to them on hand, but they're available from plenty of Taobao resellers (and you can just image search from Taobao from there if you want.) Antaina makes rocking horse shoes which are the ones I own.

I prioritize comfort and cuteness which is why I buy shoes so rarely. I need things I can wear everyday. Orthopedic mary janes are the way, but they're so expensive that it's hard to really buy them often. Oh well.

The End

Omg you made it. Or you skimmed through it. I'll give you a gold star anyways. Sorry I'm missing some things, but like I said, I buy so much from all over the place lol, and I just don't think jfashion is as simple as me giving you 20 links and going on your way. At least it isn't to me. It might be that way to you, but in that case, I don't really wanna discuss it with you you know? Because we aren't the same, so it's not really that fun for me since we aren't into it the same way. It's kind of an aesthetics vs subculture thing. I really encourage you to find people interested in it the same way you are because I'll just disappoint or overwhelm you. I have no desire to tone down my passion for other's comfort or feign interests in a subject that does not matter to me.

Since I'm at the end and you presumably read most of this, I must admit that I have been a bit worried about my tone. I've had so many negative conversations with non-lolitas (or well, even some lolitas) that I find myself being a bit on edge when discussing this subject matter. Truthfully, I am someone who hates having the same conversations over and over again and when I explain something but someone asks me about something included in my prior explanation, I stop responding thoughtfully.

I also know I didn't explain a lot. I just said brand names, didn't explain the importance of brand, said 'gobe' without context, and didn't point out any notable OS items.. It's cause.. Well, a lot of this stuff is pretty easy to find resources for, and if you some reading or look through jfashion scans, you'll figure it out! Though you might not figure out Taobao admittedly, but there are guides that exist HAHA.

If you do take any of this to heart despite my eccentricies, thank you. If you don't, that's fine. You're free to talk shit about me. I know I can be a bit mean. I do try my best to be a good teacher though so I appreciate you for trying to get through this anyways!

thanks
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